I will tell you that it is not the ECM and unless someone has been working on the car and had the engine harness disconnected, or you have a mouse issue, then it's not in the harness. She ran the tank to "Empty" and refilled it with good gas and no issues.
#MINITUNE ALTERNATOR TESTER L CODE#
I had one car that threw this code and it was because the owner got gas at a mom & pop station in the boonies between Austin and Fredricksburg and the gas apparently had a high percentage of water in it.
#MINITUNE ALTERNATOR TESTER L CRACKED#
I've replaced batteries, changed cable sets, replaced O2 sensor, found exhaust leaks at the manifold gasket, vacuum leaks due to cracked vacuum hoses on the intake, and occasionally a loose fit air tube because someone didn't tighten the clamps. I cannot give you a definitive answer because there is not one. I always recommend them with the 120k miles spark plug replacement unless something happened with them prior and they've already been replaced. If they are really old, like original, then you should replace them regardless. Both sensors are maintenance parts that wear out over time. P2096 can set due to a failed front or rear sensor. Once the battery and grounding is all good, and there's no leaks, then the function of the front and rear O2 is checked via data logging or with a multimeter. You would have to buy the positive clamp separate. Subaru sells battery cable sets that include the positive and negative cables together. Checking the engine grounding is done the same way, only the negative clamp is attached to the case of the alternator and then checked and compared to the battery output. Do the math, and if the difference is more than 75 A a new ground cable is needed.
The tool is used as a conductance tester to check for ampere loss through the cables, so leaving the positive clamp on the positive post after measuring the battery output, the negative clamp is moved to the end of the main ground by the starter and another measurement is taken. If it's within about 50A of the CCA on the low side, or measures higher than the CCA, the battery is good. This tool measures the ampere output of the battery which is then compared to the CCA rating of the battery. The battery needs to be checked with a conductance tester/ammeter. The excessive fuel can be related to the battery and cabling also. The C codes, other than the speed sensor code coupled with the wheel bearing issue, indicate communication issues that most likely are due to the battery and cabling. The rear O2 fuel trim is for managing cat function.įirst thing to check is the battery and grounds. The ECM manages fuel based on the front AF sensor and the rear O2 sensor combined. Post catalyst fuel trim too lean means the rear O2 sensor is sending low voltage back to the ECM indicating a higher than expected oxygen level after the catalytic converter. If anyone has had a similar issue, or has experience with these problems please let me know. I have recently topped off my tires as I thought that was the issue. My fuel economy has also decreased over the past 3 months from an average of 26.7mpg to 25.2mpg. I have heard a slight cyclical humming noise from the car that increases in frequency as I accelerate. P2096 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System - Too Lean (Bank 1)Īs far as possible issues / symptoms: I believe one of the wheel bearings needs to be replaced. I took it to AutoZone this morning to get the codes read and the following codes came back: The Parking brake and Cruise Control lights are blinking. The Check Engine Light and Vehicle Dynamic Control Lights are solid. The car is functional and starts just fine. I was driving home last night when the Check Engine Light, Cruise Control, Parking Brake, and Vehicle Dynamic Control warnings came on suddenly.
This is my first post on this forum so I apologize if I’m posting this in the wrong section or something of that sort.
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